Duerkopp Adler 327 Operations Instructions

Contents Page:Preface and General Safety NotesPart 1: Operating Instructions Cl. 5581. Product Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Buttonhole formCutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Loopingfor width area stroke558 Nähgutbefore after min. max.mm mm mm mmLoose, coarse weave clo

5.6.4 Mounting Switch b3In the parts set there are 2 switching cams for the different sub-classes:Sub-class Switching cam-221301 , -251301 straight s

5.6.5 Mounting the Switching Rail for Switch b2–Loosen screw 4.–Remove the block 2 from the length setting slide.–Screw on the switching rail 1 with

5.6.6 Mounting the Upper Thread Catcher on the Machine Arm–Remove the head cover 8.–Replace the protecting bar 10 for the upper toothed segment with

1.5 Optional Equipment558 - 10012 Electromagnetically operated upper thread catcherThe electromagnetically operated upper thread catcher immediately

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2. Operation2.1 Removal and Placement of the Clamp PlatesCaution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Remove or place the clamp plates only with the ma

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Sub-classes -211241, -221301 and -241291:Removing the clamp plates–Swing the clamp plate holder 1 away to the side.–Pull the spring mounted slide 3 in

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2.2 Turning On - Quick Stop - RestartCaution Risk of Injury !Do not reach into the area of moving machine parts,particularly not under the knife and t

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RestartIn order to avoid damage to the machine, when restarting after a quick stop it isessential to proceed as follows:–Lift the idle lever 5 until i

4. Malfunction Remedies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 765. Optional Equipment Electromagnetic Upper

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2.3 End Position of the Sewing Machine–Turn handwheel 2 until it catches.The needle is in its highest position.ATTENTION !Before turning the hand cran

2.4 Needles, Threads and GimpsTable: Threads and GimpsSub-class558-221301558-231391558-251301558-211241558-241291Needle thread typeand thicknessPolyes

NeedlesNeedle system: 558Needle thickness: Nm 90 - 110Dependent on type of sewing thread and material.Replacing the needleCaution Risk of Injury !Pull

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2.5 Threading of the Underthread (Hook Thread)Caution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Thread the underthread only with the machine turned off.The

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Path of the underthread when using yarn or wool cones:If yarn or wool cones are used as hook thread then these are to be set on the asoptional equipme

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2.6 Threading the GimpCaution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Thread the lower and upper gimp only with the machineturned off.–Place tube and wire

1. Product Description1.1 Short Description and Proper UseThe DÜRKOPP ADLER 558 is a double chain stitch buttonhole machine.Buttonholes with or withou

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Sub-class -241291:This sub-class is equipped with gimp pulling device.Before the start of sewing it pulls the gimp back to the correct starting length

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Upper gimp threadingThe feed of the upper gimp is possible with a gimp guider placed in front of the needle.The threading of the upper gimp is conduct

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2.7 Threading of the Upper Thread (Needle Thread)Caution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Thread the upper thread only with the machine turned off.

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Threading by difficult to unreel thread rollsTo achieve an easy pull off of the upper and underthread from the thread plate: –Additionally guide the u

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2.8 Thread TensionUpper thread tensionThe upper thread tension on the machine arm must generally be set tighter than theunderthread tension.It is set

1.2 Sub-classes558 - 211241With automatic trimmers.The upper thread, the underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom are cut so shortthat no threa

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Underthread tensionThe underthread tension is set by turning the knurled nut 3 on the hook bracket.Tension increase = turn to the rightTension decreas

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2.9 Sewing–Place a work piece under the clamps and align precisely.The alignment can be made with markings or the stops available as optionalequipment

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Caution Risk of Injury !As long as the seamstress is not yet familiar with theoperation of the machine she should turn off the motor withthe hand shif

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2.11 Buttonhole lengthCaution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Set the buttonhole length only with the machine turned off.ATTENTION !The changing o

1Sewing lengthCutting lengthExample:E407/L2resp.E2407/L2minimumSewing lengthmaximumSewing lengthTaper bar lengthSewing length50

Buttonholes with Taper BarBy buttonholes with taper bar the different buttonhole lengths are achieved throughinsertion of the appropriate lower disc c

1.3 Technical SpecificationNumber of stitches: 1.650 Stitches/minType of stitch: Double chain stitchSewing length: max. 50 mmCutting length: max. 50 m

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2.12 Cutting LengthThe cutting length is determined by the length of the cutting block.It can be altered by changing the cutting block.The order numb

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Mounting the cutting block at the top or bottom ?The mounting of the cutting block 2 and the cutting knife 1 is dependent on thesub-class with its sew

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2.13 Cutting BlocksCaution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Remove the cutting block only with the machine turned off.A trueing (filing) of the cut

2.14 Cutting PressureThe cutting pressure is set with screw 1:Increase cutting pressure = turn to the rightDecrease cutting pressure = turn to the lef

2.15 Spreading of the MaterialCaution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Set the spreading only with the machine turned off.At the setting "cutt

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2.16 Stitch DensityCaution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Set the stitch density only with the machine turned off.For the whole buttonhole length

1.4 Sewing DevicesThe devices parts for the different buttonhole forms and cutting lengths are establishedunder device numbers (E no.’s).After the E n

Seam widthCutting areaButtonhole width123AB62

2.17 Seam Width (Buttonhole Width)Caution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Set the seam width only with the machine turned off.At the setting "

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2.18 Buttonhole FormThe buttonhole form is determined by the two exchangeable disc cams 1 and 2:–The upper disc cam 1 determines the eye form.–The low

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2.19 Change-over to Cutting Before or After SewingCaution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Conduct the change-over to "cutting before" o

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2. Timing of the closing and opening of the clamps–Tilt the machine head up.–Loosen screw 2.–Push the clamp closing lever 1 in the appropriate arrow d

3. MaintenanceCaution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Maintain the machine only when it is turned off.3.1 CleaningA clean machine protects against

3.2 LubricationFor lubrication of the machine only ESSO SP-NK 10 lubricating oil is to be used.SP-NK 10 is available at the DÜRKOPP ADLER AG sales off

Buttonhole formCutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Loopingfor width area stroke558 Materialbefore after min. max.mm mm mm mm- 211241 Loose, coars

3.3 Oiling Positions***********72

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4. Malfunction RemediesMalfunction Remedy1. Machine does not start orruns unevenly.a) V-belt from the motor to thehigh-speed wheel or to thehandwheel

Malfunction Remedy5. Unequal stitch lengths orstitch positions.a) V-belt is too loose.b) Gimp is too taut, jams or doesnot pass easily through thegimp

Malfunction Remedy9. Needle breakage.a) Needle thickness is unsuitablefor the material or the thread.b) Needle is hitting the clothclamps.Use a needl

5. Optional EquipmentElectromagnetically Operated Upper Thread Catcher5.1 GeneralThe sub-class 558-221301 has the the electro-magnetically operated up

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5.2 Electrical ConnectionATTENTIONAll work on the electrical components of the upper threadcatcher may only be conducted by electricians orappropriate

Buttonhole formCutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Loopingfor width area stroke558 Nähgutbefore after min. max.mm mm mm mmLoose, coarse weave clo

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–The cam 6 connected with the length setting slide operates the switch b2. Thethread catcher lowers.Through the slide of the opener lever 8 onto the o

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5.4 Turn-on InterlocksSwitch b4With the cloth clamps opened the machine can only be turned on in its end position. Forthis cams 1 operates the switch

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5.5 SettingCaution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.Make setting only with the machine turned off.5.5.1 Lift of the ElectromagnetThe lift of the e

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5.5.3 Lowering MovementOpener settingAfter the closing of the thread gripper 1 the opener lever 3 must move past behind theopener 2 unhindered.Thread

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5.5.4 Gripping MovementBringing the thread gripper in gripping positionAfter sewing the left buttonhole seam the thread gripper 3 must be set in the

Buttonhole formCutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Loopingfor width area stroke558 Materialbefore after min. max.mm mm mm mm- 11241 Loose, coarse

5.5.5 Switches for the Upper Thread Catcher ControlsATTENTION !Before commissioning the machine all switches must beset as described below.Switch b4S

Switch b3After the sewing in of the upper thread end in the right buttonhole seam switch b3determines the timing of the raising of the thread catcher.

Switch b2After the trimming of the upper thread switch b2 operated by cam 1 determines thetiming for lowering the thread catcher.Cam 1 is connected to

Switch b1Safety switch b1 is directly under the clamp frame 1.It is to prevent the machine being turned on with the cloth clamps open.–Switch b1 must,

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5.6 AttachmentCaution Risk of Injury !Pull the mains plug.The attachment of the upper thread catcher may only beconducted with the machine turned off

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5.6.2 Laying the Wiring–Pull the hand crank 17 from the shaft end.–Loosen nut 16 ( ATTENTION: lefthand thread)–Loosen nut 13.–Pull off the high-speed

–Fasten angle 21 with switches b1 and b2 to the support 22.–Attach the cable clips.–Mount switch b4 to the outside of the control curve housing.–Secur

5.6.3 Control Unit–Mount the control unit 2 under the table.–Lay the cable 1 from the wiring distributor to the control unit 2 (plug b10) and aatchto